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American Legend Aircraft: A元, AL11, AL18.Piper: PA-18 Super Cub (and L18C & L21).Adventures, Stories, Journeys and Musings.Quick Navigation The Art and Science of Flying Top
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It seems to me that a similar mod on our Cubs would be a minor alteration. That made an unforgettable impression upon me. It was reported he was seen falling separate from the plane screaming all the way down. Unfortunately that Bellanca was lost somewhere in upstate NY when the Dentist owner was flying in the clouds with only a T&B, managing to tear a wing off. This was issued during the 50's or early 60s. This to increase the effectiveness of the elevator at low speeds. There is/was a requirement that a fabric tape be attached to the top of one surface and woven down through the gap to be attached to the bottom of the other surface. Take care, RobThis reminds me of either an AD note or some sort of a bulletin on the Bellanca's stabilizer/elevator gap. I have on several occasions pulled mine off for someone else to try on their airplanes, and they have immediately ordered a set. I also agree with all the above that said the CC gap seals will help the flare. The neighbors is a good flying cub, but again heavy, and enough more fwd, that it wants tools or something in the back (so more weight). I didn't realize there was a significant weight difference there. Except my neighbors (CC Rebuild with the Sensenich). Steve, most of the certified 180 cubs I have flown run the 1A200. I am of the opinion that if a guy wants a Sunday pattern cruiser, or a STOL competition style bird, there are better choices. My CC experience pails in comparison to a lot of guys here, but the ones i have flown, regardless of wether they were rebuilds or CC180's, were not J3's in the flight characteristics department. I guess I was just more focused on keeping the nose out of the dirt, than thinking about the lack of tail. Firm pressure one side than the other, you do it fast left heel than right heel. If you need to use heavy brake than ONE at a time, it cannot go on its nose. The only time I did get a little nervous was in a J3 and strong surface winds and a downwind taxi, I just taxied at walking speed and no issue. Don't jam on the brakes at slow taxi speeds.I have never put one on its nose, 2000 hours Super Cub time, I have seen it done a couple times but I have always been careful I guess. It doesn't make any difference how nose-heavy you are, or how good your brakes are, or how big your tires are. If you then do not immediately get off the brakes you will be on your nose. So you do what all of us do - power to idle, jump on the brakes. Here is the scenario: "Cub 123, cleared for immediate takeoff!" You are ten feet from the hold line, at a dead stop. And it is not the fault of too much brake pad area or sophisticated double puck Clevelands and Dakota masters. I had been flying Cubs for almost a half century when I realized what was happening - we had a rash of taxiway noseovers. if youre taxing at slow safe speeds I dont think it will go on nose easy, taxi as if you dont have brakes. The 160 is a better Cub engine, in my opinion. It was a pig of an aircraft, but if coaxed it would go straight up. It seemed to land normally, even with 26" blimp tires. Have never flown the Top Cub, but I have some pattern time in one of the 180CCs that Cub Crafters made from the Piper type certificate. I tell them that several times - I do not demo it. We are talking really slow speed here.įriends with your kind of experience have gone on their nose on the taxiway! The first thing I tell my students is how quick that can happen. A month later I started down the wrong alley in my Dec - panic brake, tail off the ground.
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Then what happened to you happened to me - almost identical, except by the time the tail was a foot in the air I was off the brakes, and not even embarrassed - just enlightened. I started hearing about experienced pilots going on their nose on the taxiway.
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Any taildragger will go on its nose in a heartbeat at low taxi speed and full brake application.